Affiliate Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend products we've used or thoroughly researched.

If your electric dryer is running but not producing any heat, the fix is almost always one of two parts: the heating element or the thermofuse. Both are inexpensive, both are DIY-replaceable, and together they cause roughly 95% of all electric dryer no-heat failures.

This guide walks you through how to tell which one failed and how to pick the right replacement.

First: Check the Breaker

Before you open the dryer, go to your breaker panel. Electric dryers run on a 240V circuit with two 120V breakers. It’s surprisingly common for one breaker to trip while the other stays on.

When this happens, the dryer motor runs (one leg of power) but the heating element doesn’t (other leg). The drum spins but the clothes never dry. Reset both breakers fully and test.

If the breaker isn’t the problem, keep reading.

Heating Element vs. Thermofuse: What’s the Difference?

Heating element: The coiled resistance wire that actually generates heat. When it fails, it usually breaks (burns through at one point), and the circuit is open — no heat at all.

Thermofuse: A one-shot safety device that blows if the dryer overheats. It cannot be reset — once it blows, it must be replaced. A blown thermofuse is often caused by a clogged dryer vent (the fix is replacing the thermofuse AND cleaning the vent, or it’ll blow again).

Both parts can be tested with a multimeter set to continuity/resistance. No continuity = bad part.

How to Diagnose Which Part Failed

  1. Unplug the dryer
  2. Remove the back panel (usually 6–8 screws)
  3. Locate the heating element housing (a large metal box, usually lower right on the back panel)
  4. Locate the thermofuse — it’s a small oval or rectangular component on the heating element housing or exhaust duct, connected by two wires
  5. Test each with a multimeter for continuity
    • Good thermofuse: continuity (beep or near-zero ohms)
    • Bad thermofuse: no continuity (open circuit)
    • Good element: continuity between the terminals
    • Bad element: no continuity (broken wire somewhere in the coil)

Replacement Parts by Brand

Whirlpool / Maytag / Kenmore / Estate / Roper / Admiral

The most common dryer element in the US. Part #279838 fits an enormous number of units.

Check Whirlpool heating element #279838 on Amazon

Thermofuse for most of these: #3392519

Check Whirlpool thermofuse #3392519 on Amazon

Pro tip: When you replace the thermofuse, replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. They’re usually sold as a kit and cost almost nothing extra — but it saves you a second teardown if the thermostat was also marginal.

Samsung Dryers

Samsung uses a single-element design on most models. Part DC47-00019A covers a large range.

Check Samsung heating element DC47-00019A on Amazon

We’ve seen the Amazon price for this part at $12–18, while our local parts supplier charges $40+ for the same OEM part. Amazon wins here.

LG Dryers

LG uses a different element style. Part 5301EL1001J (also listed as AP4439759 / PS3527791) covers most LG electric dryers.

Check LG heating element 5301EL1001J on Amazon

Frigidaire / Electrolux Dryers

Part 134792700 covers many Frigidaire and Electrolux electric dryers.

Check Frigidaire heating element 134792700 on Amazon

GE Dryers

GE uses a kit that includes the element and sometimes the thermostat. Part WE11X10007 is common for many GE electric dryer models.

Check GE heating element kit WE11X10007 on Amazon

How to Replace the Element

  1. Unplug the dryer
  2. Remove the back panel
  3. Disconnect the wires from the element terminals (photo the connections first)
  4. Remove the screws holding the element housing
  5. Slide out the old element
  6. Transfer any thermostats mounted on the housing to the new element
  7. Install the new element, reconnect wires, reassemble

Most dryer element replacements take 30–60 minutes with basic tools. YouTube has model-specific videos that walk through the exact steps.

One More Thing: Clean Your Vent

If the thermofuse blew, it blew for a reason — usually a clogged exhaust vent. Before you put the dryer back together, pull it away from the wall, disconnect the duct, and clean the full vent run from the dryer to the outside exit. A 10-piece rotary vent cleaning kit on Amazon makes this a 20-minute job.

Skip this step and the new thermofuse will blow again.

When to Call Us

If you’ve replaced the element and thermofuse and the dryer still won’t heat, the issue may be:

  • A failed thermal limiter or operating thermostat
  • A defective control board
  • A wiring harness issue

These require a bit more diagnostic work. We’re in the Edmond/OKC area and can usually get a same-day or next-day appointment — call 405-730-9131.